John Lobb is among the most renowned manufacturers in Northampton, a city that rose to prominence as a core of the shoe industry in the seventeenth century. Although Hermes Group has owned the company since 1976, the factory is dedicated to preserving the craft techniques developed in the Victorian era.
Technology is used, but sparingly. Specifically, the laser is not applied directly to the hides. Instead, plastic patterns are made, which are handed to clickers. Their title comes from the characteristic snap of the knife blade hitting the cutting table. With feather knives, they cut the hides manually.
Production is carefully restricted, with only no more than five hundred pairs made each week. This approach gives the sense of one-of-a-kind production. Employees work on multiple models daily, instead of repeating one routine step like in mass-production plants. Every shoe is built with Goodyear welted technology, allowing the soles to be replaced without damaging the upper.
In line with Hermes, John Lobb sources the best-quality hides, particularly from premium French calfskin. Only slightly more than half of the leather is suitable for cutting, while the remainder becomes smaller accessories.
The collection combines iconic staples with modern updates. The City II black Oxfords, for instance, now feature a sleeker silhouette. The Sennen model gained longer straps and a thicker sole. The Lopez classic, introduced in the mid-20th century, were updated with new colors and rubber soles. Newer icons include the Porth sneakers and the Levah shoes, which are produced yearly in different shades and textures.
Through its commitment to tradition and quality, John Lobb stands as a defining name in world-class shoemaking.
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